On the Road to Tlaquepaque

August 27, 2011 02:55PM | Cities, Culture, Travel | 0 comments | Print this page
by Adriane Berg

If you are a road warrior, you know the guilty pleasure of taking a few days before or after your meeting or conference to go exploring. When you find yourself in Guadalajara, Mexico, as I did at the American Mexican Retirement Conference, take the bus, a cab ride or rent a car and visit that Mexican tongue twister Tlaquepaque.

Tlaquepaque is a small town of fun, food and friendship; but also of some of the most outstanding crafts and craftsmen in the world. It is exactly the reason you would go to Mexico. Colorful costumed dancers in swirling skirts, the sudden sound of mariachi players as they mysteriously appear out of nowhere, dining on some of the most famous gourmet dishes South of the Border.

Tlaquepaque is only a few kilometers from Guadalajara, another city more than worth visiting especially for its fine opera house and magnificent Cathedral. Most tour packages include the craft town in their itinerary; but the excursion from anywhere in the region is an easy one for the Ageless Traveler. Once you are there the treed lanes and frequent outside tables and benches make the hot weather more pleasant, even in summer. However, as always, take care to hydrate.

Tlaquepaque is an historic town, originally named San Pedro or Georgetown located in the Mexican state of Jalisco. I never did master the proper pronunciation, although Wikipedia claims that “tlakepake” will do. But, it doesn't sound right to my ear, although Susan my traveling buddy seemed to get it right every time. The name comes from the indigenous “Nahuatl” meaning "place above clay land". So, ecologically it's a natural Mecca for pottery and blown glass as the raw materials are all around you.

Most of us Ageless Travelers are giving away our “stuff,” so beware of the temptations to buy; especially during festivals like San Pedro when the central plaza sports stall after street stall of excellent crafts. If you are not a recreational shopper (fat chance) Tlaquepaque has its share of historic venues, churches and museums. One that we visited unaccountably featured an installation of vampire statues and other horror masks.

If you are like me, the centerpiece of your experience will most likely be Avenida Independencia, a pedestrian mall of wonderful crafts from Taxco, rugs from Oaxaca, copper from Michoacan, hand blown glass, hand painted tiles, huichol clothing from Nayarit and pottery from the states of Guanajuato and Jalisco.

At this very moment I am wearing a magnificently crafted silver ring (price $96) from the art works of Sergio Bustamante who hails from Tlaquepaque. You will also see his statuary marked by his signature moon faces and elongated bodies all through the major parks of Guadalajara. If you're interested in original sculpture, you'll find it here. Buy and ship to anywhere in the world at a fraction of its price at home.

Because it was off-season, Susan and I took what we thought would be a quiet night walk and stumbled upon the main plaza where people were happily eating authentic Mexican dishes and watching street performers on the main center stage.

However, wandering out at night is not necessary if you stay in the right inn or hotel. I strongly suggest Quinta Don Jose, www.quintadonjose.com, the inn that was recommended by nearly every individual that I spoke with at the AMAR conference. Once Susan and I arrived we understood why. The level of hospitality is extraordinary as is the location in the center of town, assessable by foot to the Plaza and the shops. Wherever you stay be sure to eat at Quinta Don José. The house chef is as accommodating as they come; and as an Ageless Traveler you might have certain food restrictions. No need to pass up any of the Mexican food or flavors because of spice, sugar restrictions, or lactose intolerance. Simply let the management know the issue and you'll have a custom dish perfect for your health.

If you want to take a shot at the ultimate chocolate experience, the chef has created his own dessert with indescribable layers of sweets and alcohol that's not to be missed if your waistline can stand it.

To learn more about Tlaquepaque, Lonely Planet, Frommer and Fodor’s Guides all have substantial information. Once you are there, visit the tourist kiosk at the southwest corner of the Parian. The bus and any taxi will easily take you there. Every person can direct you, if you are walking.

The official Tlaquepaque tourism office at Morelos #288 (second floor), open Monday to Friday, 9 AM – 3 PM, can answer questions and perhaps provide walking tours.




Tags: benches blown glass gourmet dishes guadalajara mexico mexican retirement

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