At the end of July I had this dream of swimming laps in the moonlight on a warm summer’s eve. The pool was huge, and the water was fresh and just the right temperature. As usual, I would not dive in, since I like to go in more slowly these days. But the water was so perfect, a fast dive skimming the surface and landing smoothly on the great expanse would have been heavenly. Ever summer there is this one mid-summer’s night dream that occurs for me. (I suppose I make it occur.) It is the moonlit swim in some fantastic pool that is so serene, so fresh and so exciting at the same time. Have you ever swam in a beautiful shimmering pool and lost track of time, not wanting to stop, wishing it would never end?

The dream turned into a reality. I decided to do an off-season escape to Palm Springs, with my BFF. There was one resort spa that I had heard about that was voted the best of the best by Conde Nast and several spa aficionados had suggested that I try it out. I had heard only good things about this place.

Miramonte Resort and Spa, located in Indian Wells is just a few miles from the heart of Palm Springs. After decades of visiting the grand hotels that are big enough to hold golf tournament or a tennis tournament, it was time to try out a smaller spot that would be peaceful and not a lot of screaming kids, teens and college dropouts. “The Miramonte AAA 4-Diamond resort exudes a romantic atmosphere and provides guests an oasis where they can truly get away from it all.”

The press kit says it all:

“Nestled against the majestic Santa Rosa Mountains in the California desert community of Indian Wells. A region to which travelers have long flocked in search of peace and tranquility, Miramonte’s inviting atmosphere encourages guests to leave their everyday concerns far behind and embrace the sunny, warm climate and the pleasures of a luxurious getaway.”

We arrived in the afternoon and it was too hot to sit in the sun (at this age we are no longer sun-worshipers, we’ll leave that to the snowbirds). The place was quiet, but the pool was jumping with kids and families. This is the best time to go to a luxury hotel and get the best rates. When we arrived at our room we were pleasantly surprised. The property is small and intimate, with well-manicured landscaping and Mediterranean style villas. Upon entering the room we felt immediately at home, it was spacious, super clean with a simple but tasteful décor. The biggest surprise was the “signature Desert Dream beds, a superior mattress that features six layers of specialized foam within the pillow top, made complete with the softest down bedding.”  They were truly one of the best hotel beds I’ve ever tried.

My focus was to check out THE WELL Spa, (“the Coachella Valley’s only Mobil-rated spa, which was also chosen as one of the top 10 resort spas in North America by Condé Nast Traveler readers in 2008.) It is very intimate, small by comparison to the “big boys” across the desert, but has a charm that is serene and contemplative.

“THE WELL offers the ultimate in relaxation and retreat, with five outdoor and nine indoor relaxation suites, and two signature river benches, as well as a Watsu pool. The spa’s services incorporate techniques inspired by the Mediterranean way of life, and utilize a diverse array of enticing ingredients—from wine to therapeutic muds, locally grown herbs, and handcrafted essential oils.” I am always a big fan of using indigenous and local ingredients. This is what makes or breaks the definition of a good spa. Otherwise, you are just one of the cookie-cutter places that uses the same-old same old products and many you can just buy and use at home. I always like to see something unique and different. It shows they are really making a mark and have something to rate them above the rest.

The minute we entered the spa, we were personally escorted on a tour, with a glass of champagne and a little bite of naughty dark chocolate (and I think a fresh raspberry.) I forgot, once the champagne was finished! It’s hot out there, so you have to make sure to drink tons of water before you go for the cocktails!

Wherever I go, I check to see if they have my favorite treatment, the Watsu. The first time I had one, it was like being a baby again, with someone carrying you around this small, intimate pool and letting your whole body loose and releasing all tension. For me it’s better than a massage. I tend to think too much with that, but put me in an empty pool of water and I can relax. One of only two spas in the Coachella Valley to offer Watsu, THE Well’s Aqua Well massage (like Watsu) is the ultimate experience that utilizes an innovative massage and yoga-like stretching in a weightless state of surrender (60 minutes, $130-145).

Although I didn’t get to try any of the other treatments, my BFF had a wonderful massage (she’s the massage maven) and she said “the masseur was highly intuitive and knew just where to focus and help her release a ton of tension in her problem areas). The spa menu boasts a multitude of different offerings and the pay attention to the process of spa-ing by offering before treatments as appetizers, like the 15-minute Foot Ritual or the Bagno Vino (wine bath). The true spa aficionado knows that you need to get the full-body bliss by relaxing even before you get a massage or a treatment. Many of us run from the car to the dressing room, undress, and quickly go straight from the outside world to disrobe our stress and expect to have a taste of Nirvana. It is my experience that if you’re really going to get relaxed, you need a ritual and taking time for yourself before and after will be the anti-dote to the daily grind. Guests soak in a potent wine mixture rich in vitamins, which hydrates the skin, and those choosing a 45-minute treatment experience an underwater massage and exfoliation or lotion application (15 or 45 minutes, $45-120).

I always prefer intimate, small luxury hotels over the big convention-type megaliths. Miramonte Resort & Spa is one of more than 30 independent, upscale hotels, resorts and conference centers by Destination Hotels & Resorts, the fourth largest independent hospitality management company in the country.

Get it while it’s hot! Now is the time to check out the off-season offerings, especially at the Miramonte Hotel and Spa in Indian Wells (www.miramonteresort.com).

Check out the current spa specials and packages at http://www.miramonteresort.com/palm-springs-vacation-packages.php.